(Between Visits to the Dermatologist, Of Course)
By Dr. Marcie Ulmer
An appropriate skin care regimen will help maintain and restore a youthful appearance. The goal is achieve healthy, vibrant-looking skin. The ideal skin care routine for any individual is tailored specifically to the needs of their skin and lifestyle.
Below are four steps you can incorporate into your daily routine to keep your skin looking youthful.
1. Sun Protection
Perhaps the most important step (i.e. a ‘must do’) for everyone is proper sun protection. I recommend application of a SPF >30 broad-spectrum sunscreen, which protects against UVA and UVB rays, each morning on the face and neck year round. Both UVA and UVB cause skin damage.
There has been a significant increase in UV radiation exposure over time due to many factors, such as diminishing ozone layer, increased outdoor leisure time, indoor tanning use, change in clothing styles, etc.). We also know there is a causal relationship between not only UV exposure and skin cancer, but also UV exposure and signs of aging such as wrinkling and pigmentation of the skin.
It is important to know that UVA can penetrate through window glass and clouds to reach the deeper layers of the skin, contributing to photoaging at times when you may feel you are protected from the sun. Applying sunscreen each morning as a part of a daily routine means you will not be caught unprotected.
The best sunscreen is the sunscreen you like well enough that you’ll use it regularly. There are excellent broad-spectrum sunscreens that are incorporated into moisturizers and mineral-based powders. Tinted sunscreens and many makeup products also incorporate sunscreen and are very cosmetically elegant. It is best to apply sunscreen 30 minutes prior to sun exposure, apply it generously and remember to re-apply when needed (generally every 2 hours when outside).
In addition to regular sunscreen use, a broad brimmed hat, sunglasses and shade seeking are also important. If you desire a little color, self-tanners and bronzers are safe ways to attain this look but remember the color they provide does not offer sun protection.
2. Antioxidants
Antioxidants are a great addition to your skin care routine and I think of them as ‘superchargers’ for your sunscreen. Vitamin C is a naturally occurring antioxidant and is used topically to help prevent and treat sun-damaged skin. Vitamin C neutralizes free radicals and protects skin cells from oxidative stress caused by UV light and also enhances collagen production.
Use of topical vitamin C has been shown to improve fine and course wrinkles, skin laxity/tone, and yellowing and roughness of the skin. Ferulic acid is a potent plant antioxidant and helps stabilize vitamin C. It is important to remember that topical antioxidants must be applied prior to UV exposure to be effective – ideally, apply a few drops prior to application of your broad-spectrum sunscreen in the morning.
3. Retinoids
A topical retinoid applied at bedtime is a valuable agent of our anti-aging arsenal. Over-the-counter (OTC) forms of retinoids including retinol (vitamin A) found in many cosmeceutical formulations are beneficial. OTC products can do what the prescription products do, but more slowly.
Prescription-grade retinoid preparations are available, but it is important to know that these products can elicit more dryness and irritation and proper counselling by your physician to improve tolerability is helpful. It is common for retinoids to cause temporary irritation, for this reason, allow a gradual break-in schedule – start with lower strength formulas and apply on alternate days so your skin can have time to adapt.
4. Health & Lifestyle
Basic and important aspects of your health are also important for healthy, youthful-looking skin. There is logic to so-called ‘beauty sleep’, as sleep is essential for cell regeneration and repair. A healthy diet, adequate exercise, limiting alcohol consumption and avoidance of smoking and tanning salons, will keep you and your skin looking and feeling your best.