It seems like retinoids (or more often in the media it’s retinol) are receiving much attention lately as a “super-powered anti-aging ingredient”. But retinoids are not new—in fact they have a long history of use in medicine, and have been used for over forty years in the treatment of dermatological conditions such as acne, psoriasis, eczema and photoaging.
What Are Retinoids?
A form of vitamin A, retinoids are becoming more commonly known as an impressive anti-aging ingredient that can help smooth wrinkles, improve skin texture and normalize pigmentation.
Retinoids that are commonly added in variable quantities to cosmetic products include retinaldehyde and retinol. Prescription retinoids include adapalene, tazarotene, tretinoin and isotretinoin. These compounds represent one of the few anti-aging ingredients that are scientifically shown to work on a molecular level, backed by 25 years or more of scientific evidence.
Retinoids have antioxidant properties that can interrupt the aging process of skin. They work at a deeper level boosting cell turnover and enhancing collagen production, which can eventually result in smoother skin and more even pigmentation. With prolonged use, retinoids may help the skin develop a ‘healthy glow’.
What’s the Difference Between Retinol and Retinoids?
Retinoids are the more potent compounds and can only be obtained by prescription. Retinol is the gentler relative of retinoids, but scientifically it does the same thing – it just takes longer to see the results compared with that of a prescription-strength cream. Retinol is found in non-prescription over-the-counter (OTC) formulas and when applied to the skin, it is converted to retinoic acid.
Other derivatives called “pro-retinols” (ingredients with the word “retinyl”) are even gentler on the skin, which translates into a weaker formula that is not as effective as retinoids and retinol.
Prescription Vs. Non-Prescription Retinoids
How do you decide which type to use? Since retinoids are clinically proven to improve the cellular function of photodamaged (aged from sun exposure) skin, dermatologists tend to prescribe tretinoin and retinoic acid for those with more mature skin. These topicals are much more potent than the OTC retinol-containing products, so they tend to be more effective and produce quicker results than non-prescription options.
Retinoids also tend to be harsher on the skin, requiring the user to gradually introduce it into a skincare routine. Your dermatologist should always oversee the use of retinoids.
Patients with younger skin or who haven’t tried a retinoid before might benefit from starting with an OTC retinol product and building up slowly to a higher strength. Many skin care brands producing OTC creams and gels don’t have to say how much retinol their products contain, so it’s often hard to know how effective they will be.
The OTC retinol products that we have in the clinic, however, do state the levels of retinol. SkinCeuticals has two options – Retinol 0.5 and 1.0 (the number notes the percentage of pure retinol) – while SkinMedica® has three Retinol Complex options.
How to Incorporate Retinol into Your Routine
You only need a pea-sized amount each day of prescription retinoids or non-prescription retinol-based products. Any more than that could irritate the skin.
Our dermatologists recommend starting slowly by using the product every other night until your skin can tolerate it. Initially, most people experience some level of skin irritation – such as redness or peeling – which goes away after a few days to a couple of weeks of use. If the irritation lasts longer than 3 weeks, you can decrease how often you use it or find a weaker formula. Generally, it takes about 3 to 6 months of daily use to notice a difference in your skin.